Far North escape

Red reef hermit crabs Rarawa Apr 2023

It was Rory’s wish, for his 21st birthday, to add to the Ta moko created by Rani (www.facebook.com/mokokauri/) in 2021.  As Rani’s studio is in the Far North we decided to combine the big drive with a short family holiday.  Unfortunately on our last day, when we arrived for Rory’s booking, Rani’s beloved grandmother had passed away.  He was called away so the work wasn’t done.  It was a very sad time for their family and a big disappointment for Rory.  We hope to reschedule with Rani in Auckland in the near future.  In spite of this set-back there were many wonderful moments during our seven warm humid days in the north; the people, the places and its biodiversity (particularly the coast) and the food! 

It was an opportunity to catch up with Sean’s extended whanau.  We had lunch with Uncle Vaughan and cousin Troy at Pakaraka, and consumed delicious scones with home-grown honey with Auntie Theresa and Uncle Matt at Totara North.  We called in to say hello to Great great Uncle Hami, 95, who remains sprightly and independent.  We met Lance and Jackie, who have retired to the house where we have stayed at Coopers Beach, and enjoyed their company immensely.  Sean and I both enjoy visiting artists in their studios.  This trip we visited Arna’s Glass (www.arnasglass.com ).  Her studio is full of natural items she has collected which are the inspiration for her leadlight and cast glass.  We were given a tour of the Jiwa steel (www.jiwasteel.com ) workshop by artist Sam who is passionate about the moana.  We came home with a small school of kahawai but would have loved a bigger one. 

We stayed two nights in a bach at Te Uenga bay and went kayaking, fishing and walking.  Sean and Colt caught snapper and kahawai and saw sting ray and eagle ray.  On our way to the Far North we called in at Ngawha Thermal Springs www.ngawha.nz/  We relaxed on a rainy afternoon with a soak in the hot healing water.  Rory sat in the 42oC pool too long and nearly fainted when I helped him out onto a nearby bench to cool off.  The furthest point north we visited was Houhora.  We counted 300+ Royal Spoonbill roosting in the trees at Unahi wharf and walked the wetland loop at Arethusa (www.forestandbird.org.nz/our-community/lodges/arethusa-lodge ).  At Rarawa beach, in an expanse of seaweed cast on the tide line, Colt and I found a live baby octopus, many red reef hermit crabs, a conger eel and several large intact beautiful Tun shells (www.mollusca.co.nz/speciesdetail.php?taxa=3100 ).

Our stomach’s enjoyed the spoils of the north.  We ate freshly caught fish and indulged in oysters and fried donuts at Kawakawa.  We shared a seafood basket at the Pukenui Pacific bar and consumed icecream, milkshakes and mocha’s during several stops.  I snuck into the keto bakery in Whangarei for their delicious bread and sweets. 

Thank you to everyone for your wonderful hospitality.  We miss being home in the north.